Jack Fruit

Well, it's nearly time for bed here but there's just enough time left for a bedtime story. It all started on saturday when having enjoyed our eggs and bacon at the breakfast table we climbed on our trustworthy iron steeds and headed East. Our saddles were hard and the temperature was already nudging the 30°C. Crossing the town bridge we took the NH6 in the direction of Phnom Penh/Kampong Thom heading for the Temples of the Roluos group and the temple of Bangkor specifically. So off we trodded through the busy Siem Reap roads lined with shops, markets and restaurants while pedestrians, cyclists, motos, tuktuks, cars and trucks whizzed past us both left and right. Eventually we got out of the centre and the more tranquil countryside. Tranquil but hot, and with speeding busses not really more relaxing. After about an hour and a half I had no idea how far along we were since our little lonely planet map didn't offer that many landmarks.

But then out of the trembling hot air came a little painted "Bangkor 2 Km" sign that almost made us dance with happiness! Full throttle ahead until we discovered our very first pieces of sandstone and behind it ... our very first cambodian temple. Set in the midst of greenery in the midday sun it was a sight to behold. Full of enthusiasm we headed for the entrance but a guard stopped us and asked us for our tickets. We gently responded that we did not posses any such document and kindly wished to purchase some from him. But unfortunately the purchasing of tickets is only possible at Angkor Wat... So the temples would have to await our closer inspection if we wanted to avoid a 100$ fine. But none the less enthusiastic we cycled ahead to the little town of Roluos to get a drink and find the most beautiful temple of the group: bangkor. This even more impressive towering edifice was magnificent to see... from far away. No entrance without ticket we were told in a friendly but unavoidable way. So we retreated to the town (about 4km further away through small dusty country roads). Enjoying the views and the people on the way.

 Cambodians in general don't expect foreigners to speak any Khmer at all and even the minimum of words in their language usually provoke admiration... and hilarity! They often look at you with a grimace of suspicion until they hear a friendly "sour s'day" and then their faces break open into the most heartwarming smile you could possibly imagine. Visiting the local market I feel that the chain of my bike is loosened but when a group of boys come to bring me the chain I realize we might have a small problem. Being about 20km from home with a broken bike. Luckily I spot a little garage type workshop where a young man is mending a moped. I ask if he can fix my chain and after some looking and discussing he simply says; "wait". In the meanwhile we make ourselves comfortable in the 30°C hot shadow and I start conversing in my very best broken Khmer with his wife. Their little son is there too, his hands black from playing with some dirty engine parts. They are a very tender bunch. Soon we are laughing and talking (Khmenglish) and being offered fruit. Jack fruit more precisely. We had encountered this bizarre fruit in Zanzibar before. The outside is rough and green and the inside is yellow and wirey with large pits in it. It rather tastes like pine-apple but more meaty and less juicy. Delicious. When the bike is ready we are quite sad to leave this lovely family. And when I ask him how much we owe he simply says "up to you". Unkowning what to offer we hesitate between 10 and 5$, we don't want to offend anyone and I suggest to give him 5$. They all burst out laughing; 1000 reels is all they want (20 times less). What a lovely people.

We head back for Siem Reap, passing by Bangkor again, and after two stops we make it to the hotel. We end the day in the city centre with a cambodian bbq (beef, chicken, squid, snake and crocodile meat). A welcome reward!

Sunday is spent reading and studying (it must be done sometime!). And just resting in general; preparing for the week to come...

 Roadside restaurant km 12

 Bangkor Temple with it's impressive artificial pond surround it (view from the North)

 Bangkor again, view from the East

 Our saviours!

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 Jack Fruit

Roadside view, almost home